Bring back the zeppelin!

A few times a year, all the gadget blogs get excited about some new lighter-than-air vehicle. Sometimes it's a little one for the determined hobbyist, a big one for specialised cargo, or a huge one that's never even going to exist.

And then there are the modern Goodyear-Blimp tiddlers that're shamelessly described as "Zeppelins", despite only being a third - often less than a quarter - of the length of the proper ones.

I mean, look at the "Zeppelin NT". It's 75 metres long, and can only carry 14 people, or a payload of less than two tonnes. Zeppelin bombers in World War One were already more than twice as long, and carrying 16 tonnes!

Zeppelin LZ1

This, for example, is the LZ1, the very first of the Zeppelins. It was already 128 metres in length.

I, therefore, officially demand that we bring back the hydrogen-filled zeppelin!

They'd be very safe, especially with modern technology; giant bags full of hydrogen need be no more dangerous than giant fuel tanks full of kerosene, which I remind you are usually mere feet away from the jet engines that're burning the fuel. Modern control systems could intelligently manage multiply-compartmented cellular gas-bags, to automatically keep the zeppelin in the correct attitude, manage altitude, and keep the thing flying even if someone flies his Learjet straight into the side of the airship.

If people just can't get past their irrational terror of hydrogen, then you could of course just fill your zeppelin with helium, like the old American ships. But hydrogen gives more lift and can be easily manufactured from water; the world's helium supply all comes from natural gas. Lots of scientists and engineers are beavering away at finding efficient hydrogen-storage technology, too, because we'll need such technology for fuel-cell cars to become practical. I wouldn't be at all surprised if some of the same tech came in handy for managing lifting hydrogen in airships. And, heck, some of the hydrogen could also be used as fuel!

The one great advantage of a dirigible airliner is that legroom is not an issue. You don't get vast lifting power - even the gigantic, 245-metre-long Hindenburg only had a payload capacity around the same as that of a 70.6-metre-long 747-400 freighter - but you can have as much space as you like. You just don't get to fill that space with heavy stuff. Modern lightweight composite materials would be very helpful, here; we could probably make a 75-kilo grand piano if we wanted to, these days.

(One of the indications that the huge design-concept "Strato Cruiser lifestyle zeppelin" I linked to above is not a workable device is its hilarious inclusion of a topside swimming pool. That would weigh at least a hundred tonnes, and maybe a lot more; a standard Olympic pool contains at least 2,500 tonnes of water. It'd get a lot lighter when the airship turned and the water all sloshed out, of course.)

Hindenburg dining room

This, for instance, was just the dining room on the Hindenburg. It also had a lounge, a writing room, a smoking room (which contained the single lighter permitted aboard the vessel...), bathrooms, a crew mess hall, and small, but private, cabins for the 50-to-72 passengers.

"Oh, but what if someone tried to hijack the zeppelin, or blow it up?", I hear, from the people who don't mind having their shoes examined before they're allowed onto a plane.

Well, if the hijackers are only armed with box cutters, passengers could just run away from them through the modern zeppelin's acres of lounges, bars and tennis courts. And if terrorists had, let's say, a two-part shaped-charge-plus-thermite guaranteed-747-killer of a bomb, you could stand back and let 'em set it off, straight out into a gas-bag. The venting gas might catch fire, but the straight hydrogen inside the gas cell cannot support combustion by itself, and automated systems could dump the cell's contents out the side of the airship, or pump it into other cells. The damage would be a reduction of total lift by a few per cent, at worst. The frame of the airship could be a tensegrity structure of light composite beams and pressurised gas cells, so there'd be no single component an attacker could break to bring the whole ship down.

Even if the terrorists were running around with satchels full of bombs setting them off wherever they could, they'd still only be able to damage the gas cells adjacent to the passenger areas. You wouldn't even need to have gas cells in such locations, if you didn't mind making the airship somewhat larger.

Let's see - what other objections might there be?

Oh, yes: "What if a storm catches you? You'd be blown around like a toy balloon! Storms were a big problem for the old hydrogen airships, you know!"

Well, yes, they were. But that was because the old passenger dirigibles - and the early military ones - had a cruising altitude that seldom exceeded 2000 feet, and was often much lower. Like other aircraft of the time, they didn't have pressurised passenger compartments, so they simply couldn't fly too high without everyone needing oxygen masks and eight layers of sealskin.

Back in WWI some bomber airships were made as "height climbers", flimsier in structure to make them able to attain great altitude; doing so was rather dangerous, and horrible for the crew, especially when the engines started freezing up. Even when flying at modest altitude, the old dirigible engines often needed in-flight maintenance, which was a very exciting task. None of these problems would apply to a modern zeppelin, with a pressurised cabin and reliable engines, or even fuel-cell-powered electric motors.

With modern technology to manage the gas bags, modern engines, vectored thrust for much better maneuverability and pressurised gondolas, modern dirigibles would only need to worry about weather during takeoff and landing - and they could probably delay landing a lot longer than a 747 can. The rest of the time, they'd deal with storms in the same way that regular airliners do - by flying over them.

This does creates obvious limits to the routes airships could fly, though, since they couldn't make much headway against fast high-altitude air currents. We could easily make dirigibles twice as fast as the Zeppelins were, but that still only gets you to 260km/h. If you're happy to go in the same direction as a jet stream, though, it'll boost your speed by an easy 50-to-100 knots.

I think the main actual reason why nobody's brought back the zeppelin is that they wouldn't be cost-competitive with heavier-than-air craft, in the same way that ocean liners couldn't compete with planes. Airships might be able to compete for some exotic cargo applications, perhaps, as per the above-linked SkyHook JHL-40, a hybrid zeppelin/rotorcraft, but they certainly couldn't deliver passengers from A to B anything like as cheaply as an airliner.

In a fantasy world where everybody wasn't utterly determined to turn every field of human experience into a money-making operation, however (hey, how's that all working out for you, world?), and assuming that we actually could make 38,000-foot-capable pressurised zeppelins if we wanted to ("...we can put a man on the moon, but we can't..."), then airships certainly would be competitive, if one's aim was to travel in a pleasant way.

Ocean liners of the sky, able to cover 5000 kilometres a day and take off and land virtually anywhere, which cause people to actively compete to buy a house near the airport, just to be able to watch them. Sounds like an improvement to me.

Geek ink

A reader writes:

Just wondering if I could pick your brains (or maybe, more specifically your funny-bone)?

I fancy having a little tattoo done, but have been struggling with what to have permanently etched into my flesh. I've been looking round the web at geeky logos and pictures, scientific equations and symbols, even romantic stuff I could possibly have about the girl I'm marrying in 2 months (not sure about that idea, kids are for life, but divorce can happen after all, haha). Then I hit on the idea of having a funny little "program" or code snippet done, something to insult/amuse the reader. That would be just the right amount of "geek". Doesn't have to be syntactically correct obviously, pseudocode would be fine too. But I'm struggling with it, as I'm no programmer and basically have very poor creative ability.

This is what I've conjured up so far, but I'm not happy with it yet :

TimeInSecs = 0
While YouReadThis = True
AnIdiotIsDistracted = TimeInSecs + 1

See what I mean? Very poor so far I think. It needs a little more, *something* doesn't it... So I know it's an odd request for help, but I thought I'd try my luck, as your writing style always gives me a good laugh and you always seem to help where you can.

Jonathan

I'm not a programmer either, so I can't help you a great deal with code-tattoos, but there's a whole genre of science and other "nerd" tattoos, as you've noticed.

If someone pointed a gun at my head and said "You! Decide on a tattoo for yourself in five seconds, or die!", then I would immediately nominate the "Hacker Emblem" glider, with or without the grid-lines. At the moment that symbol is tainted with the egotistical aroma of Stephen Wolfram, but after his crank theories have been forgotten, Life will endure.

(The Life motif also, obviously, gives you lots of other possible tattoos. Your second tattoo could be an R-pentomino, for instance.)

If you're going with code, consider some famously elegant algorithm, rather than just a gag. Usually, the whole idea of a tattoo is for it to say something about you; if you're a programmer, some landmark piece of code from your field would serve the same purpose as a cosmic-background-radiation tat would for the right sort of astronomer or physicist.

If you're not a programmer, though, I think getting a code-tattoo is a bit like all of those people walking around with tattoos in languages they cannot read (often in languages that don't even exist).

I sent a slightly smaller version of the above to Jonathan, then realised I could turn it into this post with a bunch of pics plundered from the Flickr Geek Tattoos group. I invite readers to contribute their own suggestions, and also to show off their own totally rad whole-back IK+ screenshot or whatever. If you want an image in your comment (which the commenting system won't let you have), just give the image URL and I'll pic-ify it.

And now, on with the tats!

UL fo' life, yo.
UL tattoo
source: jon_gilbert

A classic periodic table:
Periodic Table tattoo
source: o2b
(You might also like to consider the Chemical Galaxy or some other alternative table.)

Geometry Classic™!
Euclidean tattoo
source: normalityrelief

Salt...
Sodium chloride tattoo
source: megpi

...and a smaller tat of a bigger molecule:
Molecule tattoo
source: thiswasmeantforyou

Marrella splendens.
Marrella splendens
source: Anauxite

This isn't quite a science tattoo, but there is an Aperture Science tat:
Valve games 4 life yo
source: vissago

If you're going to go evil, of course, you might as well go ancient incomprehensible evil:
Cthulhu tattoo
source: scragz

Or try to ward it off:
Elder Sign tattoo
source: iamthechad

The Elder Sign within
source: Yabon_Gorky
(If you could get someone to engrave Elbereth somewhere on you too, you'd be pretty much set.)

"It's not the East or the West Side." "No, it's not."
Empire-symbol tattoo
source: katie cowden

Technical but abstract:
Power symbol and circuit trace tattoo
source: bdjsb7

Hindu Mario!
Hindu Mario tattoo
source: artfisch

Real computers are magnesium cubes:
NeXT tattoo
source: lantzilla

Ubuntu - but ooh, what a giveaway...
Ubuntu tattoos
source: Myles Braithwaite

More generic techno-symbols:
Power, Play, Stop symbol tattoos
source: Rain Rabbit

The Answer to the Question.
Binary 42 tattoo
source: sensesmaybenumbed
(That one's actually a temporary tattoo, but it looks good enough to me.)

The BSD Daemon...
BSD Daemon tattoo
source: andyi
...which can be useful for detecting advanced Christians.

The original:
Space Invader tattoo
source: Arkhan

Dammit, Jim!
Bones McCoy tattoo
source: Mez Love

From the same artist:
GOB Bluth tattoo
You gotta be pretty hardcore to successfully rock a GOB tat.

Oh, you're gonna pop a cap in my ass? Then I might just erase your species from history. How you like that, bitch?
Seal of Rassilon tattoo
source: Diamond Geyser
(Another Seal of Rassilon, with further sci-fi and anime tats, here. Also, it now occurs to me that it would be awesome if the Twelfth Doctor was Samuel L. Jackson.)

Reduced to its essentials:
Dalek and TARDIS tattoos
source: HB Art

"NCC-1701. No bloody A, B, C, or D."
Starship Enterprise tattoo
source: hunedx

And the opposition, plus some triangles of no importance.
Klingon tattoos
source: thatgrumguy

And then there's this Romulan spy infiltrating a Gay Pride parade:
Blackwork plus a Romulan Empire symbol
source: djwudi

The Glorious Revolution of Comrade Bushnell!
Ornate Atari-and-star tattoo
source: evil angela

This could just be camouflage for a pool shark.
Nintendo assortment tattoo
source: Fujoshi

A collection of ancient technological talismans:
Green-screen Atari 2600 tattoo
source: fejsez

(You can get geeky temporary tattoos, too. Oh, and if anybody knows where you can buy those fabric fake tattoo sleeves with stuff other than the generic tough-biker or B&W-tribal tats on them, do share. UPDATE: DealExtreme have a bunch of very cheap sleeves now, including a few less-Hell's-Angel-or-pirate options.)

UPDATE: Cracked tells you everything you need to know about tattoos!

Know everything they type, or stop them from typing at all!

Back in 2000, I reviewed the KeyGhost Security Keyboard, an apparently ordinary keyboard with a hardware keylogger hidden inside it. Later that year, I reviewed the KeyGhost II Professional, another hardware keylogger, this time built into an innocuous-looking keyboard plug adapter.

Those reviews have a special place in my heart, partly because I just love the sneakiness of these little things, and partly because someone ripped off my pictures of the guts of the Security Keyboard...

Keyghost unit

Keyghost unit side 2

Keyghost unit side 1

...to create an urban legend about hardware keyloggers allegedly being built into Dell laptops. (Or other makes of computer - the story's had a few mutations over the years.) Some people appear to have decided that the fact that the pictures and info about the hardware are obviously copied from my review means that I'm part of the conspiracy.

(KeyGhost now offer a Mini PCI keylogger, which actually could be hidden in a laptop computer with a spare expansion slot, or in a desktop machine with a Mini-PCI-to-normal-PCI adapter. I'm pretty sure they're not selling them by the million to the Department of Homeland Security, though.)

Anyway, KeyGhost don't sell those exact products any more. They've got better ones. And a new gadget with a completely different purpose, whose value it took me a little while to see.

The old Security Keyboard I reviewed had a memory capacity of half a million keystrokes, before new keystrokes would start overwriting the oldest ones. The KeyGhost Pro had a compression system that let it fit rather more keystrokes into the same amount of memory. And they weren't particularly cheap; the Security Keyboard version I reviewed listed for $US299, and the KeyGhost II Professional was a $US249 item.

Nowadays, you can get a 128,000-keystroke plug-adapter "External KeyGhost Home Edition" for only $US89, and for the price of the old Security Keyboard you can get the KeyGhost Professional SE Security Keyboard, with more than two million keystrokes of capacity. That's enough to hold, for comparison, Moby Dick plus the New Testament of the King James Bible).

All of the "Professional" KeyGhost loggers also still have 128-bit encryption of their contents. It wouldn't be very hard for someone who doesn't know the password for a KeyGhost Pro, but who does have some experience with hardware hacking, to dump the entire contents of the Flash memory chip - the actual dump would take almost no time at all, since you're only talking a couple of megabytes for even the top-spec KeyGhosts. But if there isn't some weakness in the encryption scheme, the attacker would then need cubic kilometres of sci-fi nanotech to decrypt the data.

As you'd expect, KeyGhost also now have USB keyloggers for people who prefer a 15-year-old keyboard interface to a 25-year-old one. The USB loggers are more expensive, starting from $US199; the flagship model is $US349. For that price, though, you get a keylogger that date-stamps keyboard activity, and records everything that's typed on any USB keyboard plugged into the computer, whether or not that keyboard's plugged in through the KeyGhost itself. It even works with multiple USB keyboards.

UPDATE: I misunderstood part of the USB keylogger product page. What that part actually meant was that the USB keylogger can be plugged into root ports or into a hub, and still work. It will also work with a keyboard that has its own built-in USB hub, provided all you have plugged into that hub is a mouse (many Mac keyboards are like this). But the USB KeyGhost only logs keystrokes from the one keyboard that's plugged into it.

And then, there's the new "QIDO". It's another little thumb-drive-shaped thing, but it doesn't log keystrokes - it changes them. Its name stands for "Qwerty In, Dvorak Out", and it does what it says on the tin - translates keystrokes from any ordinary Qwerty keyboard into Dvorak Simplified Keyboard keystrokes - and it supports a few different Dvorak variants, too. You activate and deactivate the QIDO by double-tapping Num Lock (or, apparently "Clear", on some Mac keyboards).

If you're one of the few, the proud, the Dvorak-keymap users, you'll be used to fooling around with keymap settings every time you sit down in front of a new computer, and whenever you want to make the computer usable for a Qwerty typist again. With a QIDO, all you need to do is carry the little USB dongle with you. It costs $US119 $US89 plus $US29 delivery, or less if you buy two or more.

The QIDO is a plug-and-play USB device, so to install it, all you have to do is unplug the USB keyboard cable and insert the QIDO between keyboard plug and computer (or USB hub) socket. Actually, because of the QIDO's thumb-drive form factor, I'd recommend you get a little USB extension cable to put between QIDO and computer, so the QIDO isn't hanging in the air, stressing its plug and the computer's socket. But it's still easy to install, and very portable.

The KeyGhost people asked me whether I'd like to review a QIDO, but I don't really see that there's a great deal to review in there. I can tell you now what my review would say: "I plugged the thing inline with a USB keyboard, and the keyboard continued to work normally, except when I tapped Num Lock twice, whereupon I couldn't type any more because I don't know Dvorak."

Ideally, QIDO would magically transform the keyboard's keycaps from "qwerty" to "',.pyf" when you switched modes, but you can only do that if you've got one of those incredibly expensive Optimus Maximus jobbies with a little OLED display built into each key. (The Maximus is apparently quite rubbish to type on, by the way.)

Having the wrong things printed on the keys is not actually a huge problem for Dvorak typists, once they've learned the layout well enough that they don't have to look at the keys for everyday typing, or have just built a mental lookup table of which Qwerty keys correspond to which Dvorak ones.

This isn't as hard as you might think, because standard Dvorak only relocates the alphabetic keys and common punctuation. So the lesser-used symbols of which people are most likely to forget the precise location - @, #, $, % and so on - are still where the keycaps say they are. And if you're learning Dvorak on a Qwerty keyboard you can, of course, just stick a picture of the Dvorak map on the wall and glance at it as necessary.

Since the QIDO can't change the keycaps, though, I was having some trouble figuring out what real advantage it offers over the free alternative - just changing your operating system's keymap.

It's easy to add a Dvorak keymap in Windows - or Mac OS and Linux, for that matter - and then you can switch keymap in a couple of clicks. The QIDO makes switching even faster, but by and large it didn't seem to me that it does anything that changing the keymap in the OS doesn't do.

But then I found this blog post from one Alex Eagle, which I shall now shamelessly plunder.

[KeyGhost now tell me that Alex Eagle is actually "the guy who came up with the concept for the QIDO", so it's obviously not coincidental that his blog-post wish-list so closely matches its actual features.]

Reasons why the QIDO's worth buying:

1: OS keymap control is imperfect. It's possible, for instance, to find certain modifier-key combinations that don't Dvorak-ify properly.

Windows XP (and maybe Vista - I don't know) does Dvorakification in a strange "application-by-application" way. If you add a Dvorak "Keyboard layout/IME" to WinXP, and then bring up the little Language Bar thing and select the new layout, you'll find that you're back in Qwerty mode as soon as you select any other application. This probably isn't what you want, but you're still going to have to separately select Dvorak from the Language Bar for that app, and for every other app you switch to. Each application remembers what keymap is selected, but they all seem to have to be told individually.

Windows Explorer itself counts as an application, here. So you have to select Dvorak after clicking on the desktop or a folder window, if you want to be able to press the-key-usually-known-as-R and have Windows highlight a file whose name starts with the Dvorak-layout P.

I don't think I've quite gotten to the bottom of this, either. The WinXP computer I'm typing this on is now slightly confused, after I switched the keymap back and forth umpteen times; it just switched to Dvorak spontaneously when I was in the middle of typing this document. I can definitely see the attraction of having a keyboard that sends Dvorak-mapped keycodes all by itself, and doesn't even dip a toe into this OS-mediated weirdness.

2: Some software bypasses OS keymap control and looks at direct keyboard scancodes, assuming them to map to the Qwerty values. Or, even more annoyingly, some software may sometimes look at scancodes, and at other times obey OS keyboard remapping. (From reading Raymond Chen's The Old New Thing, I know that just because an application has a user base of more than fifty million people does not mean it won't do boneheaded things like this.)

3: The QIDO lets you have a Dvorak keyboard and a Qwerty keyboard both connected to a computer, and working, at the same time, with no switch-over needed and no fooling with strange WinXP-type keymap selection. This isn't something that most people need, but if you do need it, you probably need it quite badly.

4: Remote computing. If you take control of another computer via VNC or Remote Desktop or whatever, you may or may not get the same keymap at the other end. Again, the QIDO fixes this problem altogether.

You can use the QIDO with any computer you can plug it into, regardless of whether that computer has software support for Dvorak keymaps; it will even work when the computer's not even running a normal operating system, like in BIOS setup programs (provided the computer accepts USB input in BIOS setup, of course) or the Splashtop quick-starting Linux environment. There's probably some allegedly-USB-supporting computer out there that won't work with a QIDO, but it's a standard low-power Human Interface Device, so it really ought to work with just about anything. I could believe it not working if you use it with an old high-power-consumption PS/2 keyboard (like my beloved IBMs), but I wouldn't be surprised if you just needed a better PS/2-to-USB adapter, like the one I mention here.

5: The QIDO doesn't just support Dvorak Standard and a Dvorak-Qwerty hybrid, but also the Single-Handed Left and Single-Handed Right Dvorak variants, for typing using only one hand.

(Certain jokes immediately suggest themselves, but single-handed keyboards of various sorts are immensely helpful for people who only have one hand to type with, because the other one's missing, or because the other one's busy with some other task, like steering their freaky computer-bike, or something.)

You select the keymap you want the QIDO to switch to by using a system taken from the KeyGhosts; type "keydvorak" into a text editor when the QIDO's plugged in, and a "ghost" will type out a menu for you and then await your selection.

Since the QIDO unfortunately does not magically rearrange your keycaps, I think it's likely that most people who'll want a QIDO will also want a keyboard with keys that match their Dvorak layout. It's not easy to actually find an ordinary, inexpensive off-the-shelf keyboard that comes with Dvorak-layout keycaps, but you can often just swap the keycaps around. This'll move the key-locating "pips" that most keyboards have on the F and J keys, and it's unacceptably untidy if your keyboard has differently-angled keys on each rank; if that's the case, you can just use stickers, or break out the sandpaper and permanent marker.

Switching your mind between Dvorak and Qwerty can be a lot harder than switching your keymap. If, for whatever reason, you're better at typing on a Dvorak keyboard than on a Qwerty one - which you'd of course better be at some point in the near future, if you're bothering with Dvorak at all - then you're probably going to need some way of Dvorak-ising any computer you're going to need to type on, lest you overtax your fading brain.

An expensive keyboard with a hardware Qwerty/Dvorak switch on it will solve this problem for you, provided you're happy to carry the darn thing to every computer you use. The QIDO isn't cheap, but it's not as expensive as any switchable keyboard I've found, and it's an awful lot more portable.

The only things it won't Dvorak-ise are computers that can't accept a USB keyboard for whatever reason, and laptops. But you'll probably be able to muddle along with operating-system keymap switching then, if you don't face these situations too often.

I, personally, have not the slightest need for a QIDO. But contrary to my first impression, it really does look like a useful little gadget. If you're using flaky OS keymap switching all the time and tearing your hair out, a QIDO for $US119 plus delivery could be a bargain - and, as mentioned by KeyGhost in the comments below, everybody now gets the $US89 bulk price, even if they're only buying one unit!

18: Holding reminder notes on the plate in your skull

No fewer than seventeen cool magnet tricks, from the irritatingly productive Evil Mad Scientists (I note that they favourited this...).

I've done only a few of these "tricks" - many of them are actually more in the "handy hints" department - myself. I've made homopolar motors, and done a bit of sculpting, and the big scary truncated-pyramid magnet from this old piece is our fridge-pen holder; if a pen has nothing ferromagnetic in it, we just tape a paper clip onto it. I've also got a length of aluminium tubing and a slab of copper for eddy-current braking demos.

The EMSL piece ends with a warning to keep magnets away from your laptop's hard drive, if you're seeing if you can put the computer to sleep with the lid open by putting a magnet on the embedded switch. This is a fair warning; a decent-sized modern rare-earth magnet might indeed be able to damage data on a laptop drive.

But the emphasis is still on the "might", because even the scant centimetre of aluminium and plastic between a laptop drive platter and the outside world is likely to keep magnets far enough away that any not-dangerous-to-humans NIB (neodymium-iron-boron) magnet won't be able to hurt it. The magstripe on a modern credit card has a coercivity similar to that of a hard-drive platter, and you definitely can wreck a card magstripe with a small rare-earth magnet - but the magnet can touch the magstripe, while a drive platter is inside a casing, and the casing is usually inside a computer. And, roughly speaking, the intensity of a magnetic field decreases with the cube of the distance from the centre of the magnet.

(New-fangled perpendicular-recording hard drives apparently have higher-coercivity magnetic coatings than older drives; if so, this ought to make them even more resistant to accidental erasure.)

Generally speaking, you don't have to be too worried about playing with magnets near your PC. Especially now that you probably have an LCD monitor, not a magnet-sensitive CRT that'll need degaussing if you bring a magnet too close.

Oh, look! Another chance for me to deploy my cool picture of a monitor being degaussed!

Degaussing a CRT

And now, here's somebody messing up his own monitor, so you don't have to:

Here's someone doing the same thing with a rare-earth magnet, which is so strong that I think it's pulling the shadow mask right into contact with the inside of the screen:

If a shadow mask or aperture grille gets distorted that badly (usually by physical mistreatment of the monitor, not by magnets), it's unlikely to be fixable. The monitor will still work, but it'll now have permanent weird coloured blotches.

(Black-and-white TVs, and monochrome monitors, have no shadow mask and so can't be permanently damaged by a magnet. The field will just pull the image into a funny shape, which will bounce back to normal when you take the magnet away. Only if you somehow manage to magnetise some ferromagnetic component near the tube will any of the distortion stay after the magnet has gone. Fun could be had by putting the big ring magnet off the back of a loudspeaker under someone's Apple II green-screen.)

Rockin' out over SCSI 1

Via Hack a Day:

The creator couldn't get four ScanJet 3Cs at a reasonable price, so the scanner is overdubbed into four voices. But everything else is live - hence, presumably, the less-than-perfect sync between instruments.

Johnny Five is still totally headbanging at four minutes 11 seconds, though.

Nine 0.455-inch guns

Lego Yamato

Behold: Jumpei Mitsui's minifig-scale Yamato (via).

Six years in the making, 6.6 metres long, 150 kilos. (It's only a "waterline" model, of course; it'd weigh even more if it had the whole keel.)

You know, at this scale - about 1:39.8 - a Star Destroyer (a normal one, not some special-order version) would only be about 40.2 metres long (132 feet).

I'm just sayin'.

Mecha-snippet du jour

The people who made Hangar No. 5 have achieved an extraordinary feat. They successfully made a chunk of live-plus-CGI action cinema, on a shoestring budget. Their success continues even to the point of getting wrong the stuff that action movies so often get wrong - Gatling guns that go rat-a-tat-tat instead of BZZZZZ, and gold bars that appear to actually be made of cardboard. ("It's gold! It's gold!" "No it's not! It's obviously not!"*)

But I'm just carping. Sling 'em a couple of bucks if you like it. (You can download the HD version even if you don't donate.)

See also this, and this.

* The gold bars you usually seem to see in movies (in Kelly's Heroes, for instance, which is one of my favourites) seem to be roughly six inches by two inches by one inch in size. That's 12 cubic inches, which is about 197 cubic centimetres, and gold weighs 19.3 grams per cubic centimetre.

So a single bar that size would weigh 3.8 kilograms. People in a decent state of fitness who're very motivated by the desire to become wildly wealthy might be able to carry as many as eight of them at a time.

Given the spectacular piles of gold action movies like to present to the heroes, even the muscles of Clint Eastwood and the avarice of Don Rickles won't be sufficient to shift 'em all before the credits finish rolling.

(Donald Sutherland could probably scare up a trailer for his tank, though.)

I am not, of course, the only nitpicker to have noticed this. TV Tropes calls it "Hollywood Density".

The third-smallest hard drive

1.8-inch drive, interface adapters, and cat feet

(Don't worry - he's an anti-static cat.)

I had this little "20Gb" 1.8-inch hard drive, as seen in older iPods, just sitting around. It actually has a formatted capacity of only 18.6Gb, but that's still several gigabytes bigger than my "out" directory that contains pretty much everything I've ever written, including pics. So the little drive looked like a good place for me to make another backup of "out".

(I could also use a 16Gb flash drive, which would be a much tougher backup device, and not very expensive - just today, DealExtreme listed a 16Gb Kingston USB drive for less than $US35 delivered. But I already had the little Toshiba, and it's not going to be my only backup of this data.)

I attached the little drive to my computer via two adapters. The thing at the back with the cable plugged into it is the WiebeTech FireWire Super DriveDock that I reviewed back in 2003; the FireWire cable can provide more than enough power to spin up this little drive, so I didn't need to plug in the DriveDock's plugpack.

The circuit board between the DriveDock and the drive is a Toshiba-1.8-inch to parallel ATA adapter. Like other such doodads - CompactFlash-to-PATA adapters like the one I reviewed way back in 2000, for instance - these adapters are now dirt cheap from Hong Kong dealers. EBay's full of 'em, but I got this one for $US3.49 delivered from DealExtreme.

If you're thinking of doing this yourself, because you've got a junked MP3 player or some such with a perfectly good 1.8-inch drive in it, or because you just bought such a drive on eBay for $3, bear in mind that there is more than one kind of 1.8-inch drive. (This information is also important for people who want to replace the drive in their iPod or other small hard-drive MP3 player.)

Two-point-five-inch drives are the normal type used in laptops, and also in pocket-sized portable hard drives. 2.5-inch SATA is also the form factor that many Flash-RAM Solid State Drives use. 2.5-inch PATA and 2.5-inch SATA drives all have the same pinout, regardless of manufacturer, and differ only in height. So you can put pretty much any 2.5-inch device in pretty much any laptop, USB box or what have you, as long as

1: you don't try to mix PATA and SATA (you can get PATA-to-SATA adapters, but there won't be room for one in a laptop or USB-drive-box), and

2: you're not trying to fit one of the uncommon, unusually-thick kinds of 2.5-inch drive into a destination device that only has room for the common 9.5mm-thick kind.

1.8-inch drives come in SATA and PATA versions as well, but the PATA ones - which are the only ones you're likely to find cheap or free in 2009 - come in different flavours.

The two main types of PATA 1.8-incher are Hitachi (née IBM) and Toshiba. Toshibas have a female connector on the back of the drive, and Hitachis have a male. Apart from that I think they're very much the same, so you can probably get PATA adapters that come with two cables and can work with both types of drive. If you're buying a $3.49 adapter, though, make sure it's got the right connector for your drive.

You can also find 1.8-inch drives with one or another kind of zero-insertion-force (ZIF) ribbon-cable connector. Once again, Toshiba and Hitachi have implemented slightly different versions of the same thing. So, again, all you need to plug these into a standard ATA device is a pin adapter (in this case a "contact-pad-to-pin-adapter"), but you have to get the right one. (Here's an adapter to give you a Toshiba 1.8-inch pin-connector from either kind of ZIF 1.8-incher.)

You may also find 1.8-inch drives in disk packages made to slot into a laptop PCMCIA/PC Card slot. I think there'll probably be a standard Hitachi or Toshiba PATA drive in those which you could dig out with a bit of careful surgery, but if I were you I'd leave the drive in its little armoured package and access it via a laptop, or a PC with a PCMCIA-socket card.

(If you want to dig the drive out of a PCMCIA package because you need to bring a dead iPod back to life, and you don't need a zillion gigabytes of storage, I suggest you try a CompactFlash card in a CF-to-Toshiba-1.8-inch adapter instead. Once again, though, remember that newer iPods use the ZIF-connector type of 1.8-incher, which requires a different adapter.)

Amazingly enough, there are two hard-drive form factors that're even smaller than the 1.8.

The only really "standard", widely available type that's smaller than a 1.8 is the jewel-like CompactFlash "Microdrive" (360-degree Quicktime view here). Microdrives are called "1-inch" drives by IBM/Hitachi, I think because that's the approximate diameter of their platters, but Samsung call them "1.3-inch". They're the same size as a standard Type II (thick) CompactFlash memory card, 42.8 by 36.4 by 5mm (about 1.7 by 1.4 by 0.2 inches).

Microdrives were pretty hot stuff back in the day, but even though you can buy an 8Gb Microdrive these days, they've still been made obsolete by bigger and bigger, and cheaper and cheaper, Flash RAM.

The very smallest hard drives ever made even littler, though. They're made by Toshiba, and are 32mm by 24mm by 5mm (about 1.3 by 0.9 by 0.2 inches) and officially called "0.85 inch" devices. Toshiba have managed to pack "4Gb" into one (real formatted capacity about 3.7 "real" gigabytes), as I write this.

The 0.85 drives actually have the exact same height and width as an SD memory card, as used by most digital cameras, though they're more than twice as thick. They're apparently supposed to be for bulk data storage in mobile phones and other small devices, but I don't think they've actually been used for much; Flash RAM has streaked past them, too.